STAGE 73

 Return to the BUILD


“Designed for exceptional aerodynamic features and to enhance fresh air influence from outside, the front of the LaFerrari has an aggressive appearance.”

This is going to be a much longer-than-usual stage with a lot to build, so let’s get to it!

Contents


Parts

NOTE: Both Type FF and Type GG screws are supplied with this stage:

Assembly Guide (Digital Version – click to download)

Agora Models consolidates the build instructions for Pack 10 (Stages 73-80) into a single digital PDF file:

Build


The Front Right Wheel Arch Panel

Before I began this stage, I decided to take a moment to seal the small gap between the inner and outer panels along the bottom of each door. To do this, I simply used tiny drops of super glue and a pair of bar clamps to hold them together until the glue dried:

Step 1

Retrieve your Body assembly from Stage 71 and gently place it upside down on a soft surface. Then, retrieve your Dashboard assembly from Stage 15 and slide it over the Steering Shaft (circled below) and into this proper location, as shown:

There is a forward post on the Dashboard that needs to line up to this center hole:

Secure this Dashboard into place with two (2) Type G screws (circled yellow below) and one (1) Type GG screw (circled red).

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on the threads of all screws going into metal parts:

Step 2

Retrieve your Steering Wheel from Stage 15 and push it onto the D-shaped end of the Steering Shaft.

Once this Wheel is installed, we can also verify the operation of the entire steering system:

Step 3

Connect the plug of the Instrument Panel cable to the matching plug marked ‘A’ of the Circuit Board, as shown:

Step 4

Retrieve your Front Bonnet assembly from Stage 11. Slide the Cylinder off the Piston, as shown:

Step 5

Unscrew the Type C screws holding the two Bonnet Hinges in place and set them aside:

Step 6

Fit the new left Replacement Bonnet Hinge (supplied in this stage) to this matching location on the left-rear corner of the Bonnet and secure it into place with the removed Type C screw:

In the same way, fit the new right Replacement Bonnet Hinge (also supplied in this stage) to this matching location on the right-rear corner of the Bonnet and secure it into place with the other removed Type C screw:

Finally, move the Piston from the old Left Bonnet Hinge to the new left Replacement Bonnet Hinge using the same Type D screw:

Step 7

Retrieve your Cylinder Bracket from Stage 71. Slide the eyelet of the Cylinder into this matching ‘pocket’ of the Bracket, as shown:

Step 8

Peel the backing paper from the adhesive strip on the bottom of the Cylinder Bracket:

Carefully fit this Cylinder Bracket assembly between these two rounded tabs at the lower-left corner of the Windshield as shown, and then secure it into place by it pressing down.

Fitting this can be tricky, but it is important that the hole in the eyelet of the Cylinder Bracket lines up with the holes in the rounded tabs:

Step 9

Fit the Bonnet assembly to the Body by sliding the Piston down into the Cylinder and aligning the left Bonnet Hinge as shown. Secure this Bonnet Hinge with one (1) Type D screw.

The tighter these Type D screws are, the stiffer the Bonnet will be to open and close. Set them as desired:

Step 10

On the other side, secure the right Bonnet Hinge into place with one (1) more Type D screw:

We should now be able to open and close the Bonnet without any problems or binding. There is a slight amount of adjustment in the hinges if you need to adjust the alignment of the Bonnet:

Step 11

Retrieve your Front Left Wheel Arch from the previous stage. Slide the front tab of this Wheel Arch into place under the matching lip of the Front Nose, as shown.

The bottle of Zip Kicker you see here was only being used to keep the Bonnet open wider for these pictures:

On my model, this tab did not want to slide into place at all. I ended up using a metal needle file to remove the paint from this area:

Then, it slid into place as expected:

Secure the front of this Front Left Wheel Arch into place with one (1) Type A screw:

As we now need to get under the car, I used some low-tack tape to keep the Bonnet closed:

Secure the rear post of the Front Left Wheel Arch to the Body with one (1) more Type A screw at this location:

Finally, secure the Front Left Wheel Arch to the Front Nose at the wheel opening with one (1) Type X screw, as shown:

This is what my Wheel Arch looks like installed:

Step 12

Retrieve your Passenger Seat assembly from Stage 13 and your Cockpit Floor assembly from Stage 26. Fit the Passenger Seat into this matching location, as shown:

Secure the Passenger Seat into place from below with one (1) Type B screw:

Step 13

With the Body upside down, lower the Cockpit Floor assembly down between the doors, aligning it as shown.

Make sure none of the wiring is trapped or pinched as you fit this into place:

While not mentioned, we want to gently route the wiring of the right Door Motor switch up and through this opening towards the Circuit Board:

On the other side, route the wires of the left Door Motor switch up and through this opening:

The plug end of this Door Motor cable should come out at this gap in front of the footwell, as shown:

At the left rear of the Cockpit Floor, make sure the pipe of the Fuel Tank Cap comes through this large notch and the Door Switch wires are out of the way, as shown:

At the right rear of the Cockpit Floor, make sure the Recharging Socket cable and interior LED Light wires are routed through this notch and the Door Switch wires are out of the way, as shown:

Then, secure the main section of the Cockpit Floor to the Main Chassis with four (4) Type A screws – two on each side:

At the rear of the Cockpit Floor, secure it into place with two (2) Type FF screws – one on each side:

Step 14

Connect the Accelerator Switch cable (marked ‘H’) to the matching socket H on the Circuit Board, as shown.

For reference in these steps, here is a diagram of the Circuit Board and which wire is which:

These plugs have a proper polarity and only fit correctly one way – do not force them in backwards:

Likewise, connect the Brake Pedal Switch cable (marked ‘I’) to the matching socket I on the Circuit Board, as shown:

Step 15

Connect the two Door Motor cables (marked ‘M1/L’ and ‘M2/R’) to these matching sockets on the Circuit Board, as shown.

On my model, the printed designations on the Circuit Board for these two sockets does not match the wiring labels (the board shows M2/L and M1/R), but the important part is that the left Door Motor is in the L socket and the right Door Motor is in the R socket:

Step 16

Connect the Cooling System Speaker cable (marked ‘C’) to the matching socket C on the Circuit Board, as shown:

Step 17

Connect the Door Switch cables (marked ‘L’) from the rear of the model to the matching socket L/R/Close on the Circuit Board, as shown:

Then, connect the Interior Light L cable (marked ‘D’) from the rear of the model to the matching socket D on the Circuit Board, as shown:

Step 18

Route all of the cables from the rear of the car through the tunnel along the center of the Cockpit Floor.

To keep things tidy, I used pieces of electrical tape to secure the Door Switches and Interior LED cables to the back of the Cockpit, as shown:

Next, I used more tape to secure these wires along the tunnel of the Cockpit Floor:

Then, I tucked any extra slack in all of the wiring down behind the passenger side footwell, as shown:

Step 19

Retrieve your Tank Bulkhead from Stage 68. Fit this Bulkhead behind the Cockpit assembly, orienting it as shown:

There are two points on each side of this Bulkhead that need to match up in order for it to seat properly. The first one on the right side of the car is here – make sure the Bulkhead pops into place as shown and is flush with the black shell:

At the rear on the right side, the square end needs to seat down in front of this angled tab of the Upper Rear Subframe:

In the same way on the left side of the car, make sure the Bulkhead pops into place as shown and is flush with the black shell:

And again, the square rear end of the Bulkhead on this side needs to seat down in front of this angled tab of the Upper Rear Subframe:

Then, secure this Tank Bulkhead into place with two (2) Type A screws, as shown:

Step 20

Similar to how we did the left side, slide the front tab of the Front Right Wheel Arch into place under the matching lip of the Front Nose.

As before, I did have to scrape the black paint off the small tab at the front end of this Wheel Arch:

Secure the forward end of this Wheel Arch into place with one (1) Type A screw:

Use one (1) more AM screw to secure the rear post of this Wheel Arch into place from below the car.

This screw is not easy to get to, nor take a picture of, but here it is:

Finally, secure the side of this Wheel Arch to the Front Nose at the wheel opening with one (1) Type X screw:

Step 21

The last step in this stage is to push the two Covers into these matching holes, orienting them as shown:

Thoughts


Holy cow, there was a ton to do in this stage! Not only did we add both front Wheel Arches, but the entire interior assembly was installed as well. If you found that your front panels do not align to your liking, there is information coming soon on how to make adjustments to them.

Next Up


 Stage 74 – Front Left Mudguard Lining, Mesh

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